FAQ
FAQ
How do I connect my speaker cabinet to the correct power amp output of my amp?
We try to keep the labeling on the front and rear panels of our amplifiers simple and easy to understand. Unfortunately, there is often confusion about connecting the correct speaker load to the power amp output.
Rule of thumb: A loudspeaker symbol represents the connection of one speaker load (cabinet) and the associated impedance for each connection. If a load is connected, the labeling of the individual loudspeaker symbol must be observed. If two speaker loads are connected to the power amp output, the labeling between the two loudspeaker symbols must be observed.
How do I determine the year of manufacture of my ENGL amplifier?
You can define three time periods: amplifiers built before 2000, from 2000 to 2020, and from 2021.
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Up to 2000, the year of manufacture can only be determined by hand-written dating by the commissioning technician on the motherboard (MOB) of the amp.
Example serial number: 060123
Here the first digit of the serial number is always a 0. -
Between 2000 and 2020, there was a change in the serial number structure. Again, the year of manufacture can only be determined by hand-written dating by the commissioning technician on the motherboard (MOB) of the amp.
Example serial number: 212987
Here the first digit of the serial number is always a 2. -
Starting in 2021, a change to the serial number structure was introduced again. The first three digits indicate the model number. The following 2 digits are the year of manufacture. The last 6 digits are sequential numbers. The year of manufacture can still be determined by hand-written dating by the commissioning technician on the motherboard (MOB) of the amp.
Example: MM/YY + technician abbreviation → 06/21 + U (Uwe Streitwieser)
Example serial number: 63321201234633 = E633 Fireball 25.21 = 2021201234 = sequential number
How do I determine the year of manufacture of my ENGL cabinet?
In our wood shop, the serial numbers are assigned by hand and not digitized. For this reason, our service team has no data on the production date. Here are the ways that might help you determine the year of manufacture.
- Rough Estimate:
- Fabric cover, black plastic corners, white ENGL logo: 80s and early 90s.
- Gray grille, chrome corners, chrome logo: before 2010
- Black grille, chrome corners, chrome logo: from 2010
- Coarsely textured tolex: until 2013
- Finely structured tolex: from 2013
- Precise dating via the speaker’s date code.
- To do this, the date code must be read from the speaker.
I’m hearing feedback from my speakers - is this normal?
Amplifier inputs are extremely sensitive due to the high gain factor. In combination with inherent microphonics of tubes, at certain settings this can elicit powerful feedback from the speakers – even without a guitar being connected!
This occurs primarily when Crunch and Lead channels (that is, all channels whose preamp is easily overdriven) are activated and the following settings are dialed in:
- Gain and/or Lead Gain knob past the 12 o'clock position;
- Treble knob past the 12 o'clock position;
- Crunch/Lead Volume knob past the 12 o'clock position;
- Presence knob past the 12 o'clock position
Can I damage my speakers?
Yes. And your hearing. Avoid setting the aforementioned knobs to extreme positions (that is, combinations in which several of these knobs are set
past the 12 o’clock position). This type of configuration can cause considerable feedback that could very well damage your hearing and destroy speakers. If you set the Volume or Master knobs to higher volume levels, always make sure to back off amplification levels to prevent feedback by turning the Lead channel Gain knobs down. The same applies to these channels' Treble and Presence knob settings.
Should I power on without familiarizing myself with the controls?
No. Before you power the amp up, take a moment to check out the control panel and make sure that these knobs are not set to any extreme configuration.
Why can I hear some faint background noise?
You may hear slight background noise right after you power a tube amp up, or even while you are operating. It manifests as intermittent hissing or sizzling, crackling, or popping noises. Caused by tubes, this type of noise may even occur with brand new tubes. This noise is particularly noticeable in high-gain Lead channels; reason being that these channels' gain stages are particularly powerful, amplifying noise along with these useful signal.
It is not necessary to swap tubes if you encounter this kind of noise every now and then, though you may consider replacing tubes if it becomes a constant companion.